Aquarium Care

by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

The ideal freshwater aquarium setup is housed in the best tank and adequately oxygenated by sufficient aerators, conditioned by effective filters, illuminated by appropriate lighting, sustained by efficient heaters, and enhanced by aesthetically designed décor. How to put them all together to work harmoniously may seem like a Herculean task but with a few simple steps to follow, installing a new aquarium is just one of the many fulfilling adventures in tropical fish keeping.

Preparations

Before heading out to the aquarist store to buy everything you need for your new hobby, plan out the installation on paper. This will save you the trouble of having to redo or return equipment and tank inhabitants when things don’t quite come together. These are the steps to take before anything else:

1. Decide on the size of the tank and its location. It’s best to get the biggest tank you can afford because communities are easier to establish in large aquariums. Remember, though, that a large tank will also require a sturdy stand, and appropriately sized lighting, filtration, aeration, and heating equipment. The ideal location is where you have elbowroom for maintenance and access to water, and which is not too near direct sunlight or a heat source.
2. Decide on the types of equipment you will use. With the many available models of filters, aerators, heaters, and lights, you have a wide array to choose from.
3. Decide on what types of fish you want to keep. Do enough research on the different requirements of the various species of tropical fish, and from there, plan out your landscape.
4. Choose the substrate and decorations you will use. You can include live (or plastic) plants, rocks, slates, driftwood, colored stones, pots, non-toxic figurines, and tank backgrounds. It will help if you can draw a landscape design as a guide.
5. Ask a friend or family member to help you install your aquarium. Remember that water conditioning ideally takes about a week, so, don’t expect to introduce fishes into the setup the same day you install the tank

Initial Setup

You can purchase your tank, equipment, and decorations on the same day. Buy your plants and fishes a few days after you’ve set up the tank so that the water will have stabilized, in terms of composition and temperature, and be just right for its new inhabitants. Here are the initial installation steps:

1. Clear the area where the tank will be placed. Position the baseboard or Styrofoam pads and place the tank on it, making sure the tank is absolutely level. Remember that once the tank is set up, it is not advisable, if not impossible, to nudge or push it about.
2. If you are using an under-gravel filter, assemble the parts as directed and position it on the floor of the tank. Under-gravel filters are most effective if they cover the entire floor of the aquarium.
3. Wash all décor under clean running water. Rocks, shells, and driftwood may need to be scrubbed to remove dirt and unwanted deposits. Wood should be pre-soaked; otherwise, it will float.
4. If you are using large rocks that need to sit firmly at the bottom of the tank, position them directly on the under-gravel filter. Then pour the pre-washed substrate to cover the filter plates. Slope the substrate a little so that the contour is slightly lower towards the front.
5. Arrange other large decorative items as desired. Be sure that none of the décor leans on the tank walls.
6. Install the aeration and heating systems. Organize the tubing and wiring so that they can be easily concealed, convenient to manage, and safe from accidents.
7. Carefully fill the tank with water. So as not to disturb the substrate and décor too much, put a saucer on the substrate to control the water flow.
8. Turn on all the equipment to check if everything is working properly as expected. If you’re using plastic plants and incorporating water-conditioning products like EcoBio-Block, you can put them in at this time. Let the setup stabilize for a couple of days.

Introducing Plants

Your initial setup will have become stable after a few days — it’s then ready to receive the flora and fauna.

When you purchase your live plants, some of them will be sold in clusters or bunches. Separate them so that they can be planted individually for better growth and proliferation. Remember to wash them under clean running water to remove unwanted debris or parasites. Remove dead and bruised leaves and roots.
Referring to your landscape design, position your plants to your heart’s delight. Start by planting the tall ones at the sides and at the back ends of the tank. Use smaller, rosette-type plants as foreground accents.

Don’t worry if after finishing your landscaping the water will be a bit murky – the filtration system will fix this for you in no time.

Assemble the overhead lighting hood, position it properly, and turn it on. It’s best to give the plants and the new ecosystem a little time, like a day or two, to establish a healthy environment before introducing the fish.

Introducing Fishes

When the set-up is ready for its swimming inhabitants, that’s the time to purchase the fish. Remember to introduce a few fishes at a time. Bringing in a whole community of assorted species all at one time will only lead to chaos and severe stress.

Allow the fish to acclimate to the tank’s water temperature by keeping them inside the plastic bag they were transported in. Float the unopened bag on the water surface for about an hour. Then open the bag, and gently net the fish from the bag into the tank. Try not to pour the water from the plastic bag into the tank to minimize contamination.

Introduce other community members a few at a time, when the current inhabitants have become comfortable in their new home.

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by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

One of the joys you will experience in fish keeping is making sure that the underwater kingdom you have conjured remains in its ideal, pristine condition for the longest time possible. Feeding and looking after the health and wellness of the plants and fish is just one aspect of tank maintenance; housekeeping is another.

Keeping your aquarium clean doesn’t have to be unpleasant or tedious. Some minor tasks can be done regularly to avoid, or delay, a major cleanup or an overhaul. Usually a tank overhaul is necessary only when severe pollution has occurred, and a new setup is the only way to remedy the situation. If you can take care of your aquarium community diligently enough, there will be no need for a major cleanup for many years.

Let’s look at the essential tasks in keeping your aquarium setup clean and well maintained.

Maintenance Routines

Your aquarium contains living organisms that feed, respire, grow, age, and expire. From bacteria and other microorganisms, to algae and broad-leafed plants, to an assortment of exotic tropical fishes; the ecosystem in your aquarium comprises a slice of natural life. As caretaker of this ecosystem, you must be there to ensure that the natural balance is maintained.
On a regular basis, therefore, these are the things you need to take care of:

1. Half an hour after every mealtime, remove all uneaten food. They will rot, clog the filters, and make your water toxic for the fish.
2. Daily, check all the equipment supporting your aquarium. Be sure all working efficiently because when filters, lights, aerators, or temperature regulators fail, there is a major risk of pollution and distress.
3. Observe the fishes – isolate and medicate those that look weak and sickly before the whole tank becomes contaminated.
4. Check your aquarium glass cover – clean as necessary so that tank illumination is not hampered.
5. Check for the growth of algae. You can scrape it off the walls with an algae scraper, a scrub pad, or a magnetic cleaner.
6. Trim overgrown plants and remove dead leaves and branches.
7. On a weekly or bi-weekly basis, perform partial water changes to minimize ammonia and nitrate build-up. Replace no more than 20% of the total water volume, and be sure that the replacement water is of the same temperature and composition as that of the tank. In between water changes, add fresh water to make up for quantity lost through evaporation.
8. Siphon off wastes and debris that have accumulated on the substrate, the plants, décor, and at the corners of the tank. Stir the top of the substrate a bit to unearth the dirt and debris. You can use a siphon hose or a glass tube sediment remover. This task can be performed while siphoning off water for the regular water change.
9. Clean or replace all filter elements (carbon, filter wool, sponge, etc.) every two-to-three months. You may also need to have your power filters and pumps checked and serviced for worn out parts.
10. Replace fluorescent and UV lighting once or twice a year because these bulbs degrade with use.
11. Consider using a water-conditioning product like EcoBio-Block to clarify water and reduce the need for water changes.

If despite diligent maintenance, you find yourself having to deal with accidents, pollution, or a change of mind, here’s a short tutorial on how to do a general overhaul of your aquarium.

Technorati Tags: Aerators, Aquarium Care, Aquarium Glass, Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Setup, Fish Keeping, Health And Wellness, Living Organisms, Maintenance Routines, Mealtime, Minor Tasks, Natural Balance, Pristine Condition, Ruby Bayan, Tank Maintenance, Tank Overhaul, Temperature Regulators, Tropical Fishes, Underwater Kingdom, Uneaten Food

by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

Providing your fish with the right types of food at the right time is crucial. For your pet fish to flourish in their captive environment, they need to assimilate nutrients that are identical to those found in their natural habitat.

Fortunately, different types of fish food, packed with necessary minerals and nutrients, and prepared in various forms, are commercially available. With your knowledge of your specific fishes’ nutritional and feeding requirements, and the help of your nearest well-stocked pet food store, your fish communities can enjoy the diets essential to their health, appearance, and life span.

Feeding Principles

There are several basic principles you need to remember when feeding aquarium fish. By following the feeding tips related to these principles, you can rest assured that your fish community will remain in an equilibrium and in optimum health.

1. Each specie of fish has unique food and feeding requirements. Carnivores will need plenty of protein — from meat slivers or small fish. Herbivores will require adequate fiber — from plants and algae. Some species appreciate chasing live food like insects and worms.
   Tip: Research on the food requirements and feeding habits of each breed of fish you keep. Then inspect the different types of food commercially available. This will help you determine which types of food you need to stock up on.
2. Overfeeding can be hazardous to your fish community. Fish can only eat as much as their stomachs will allow. Typically, fishes are able to swallow their one-meal intake within three to five minutes from the time the food is introduced into the tank. After that, the leftovers will remain suspended in the water and start to decay, polluting the environment. Not even the most efficient filtration system can counteract a heavily contaminated setup.
   Tip: Feed the fish a little at a time, at regular intervals during the day, instead of dropping one “big meal” into the tank. To help minimize accidental pollution and maintain a clear and healthy environment for the fish, consider incorporating a water-conditioning product in your set-up like the EcoBio-Block.
3. Fish can also get obese — another consequence of overfeeding. Some breeds of fish (like cyclids and catfish) are prone to non-stop eating, giving way to obesity and poor health. Fish food that are too fatty (like Whiteworms) should be given sparingly.
   Tip: Be aware of this obesity phenomenon and feed only the quantity and quality of food that will ensure good health and nutrition.
4. Sometimes not all the fish are able to eat properly. In a community tank, fast swimmers and hyperactive fish will get to the food sooner than the rest. Juveniles will be more picky than adults. Nocturnals will only eat when it’s dark. Surface feeders will only eat food that are floating; bottom feeders will only eat food that have sunk. A new fish may be too shy to approach the food, and sick ones will simply ignore the feedings.
   Tip: Observe all the fish during feeding time. Ensure that all of them are able to eat properly and adequately.
5. Fish appreciate variety in their diets. Feeding your fish the same food for months at a time can lead to some form of malnutrition. In their native habitats, fish obtain a variety of foods, so this is what you should strive to simulate.
   Tip: Vary the types of food you give your fish community — through a mixture or alternation of prepared foods (dried and frozen), live foods, and greens, for a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, and minerals.
6. Live or fresh foods, though nutritious and preferred by most fishes can be risky. Worms, insect larvae, water fleas, and brine shrimp are just some of the live foods that most fish enjoy chasing and gobbling up. Unfortunately, introducing these tasty delights into your aquarium poses the risk of introducing disease-carrying bacteria or accompanying predators (leeches and diving beetles) as well.
   Tip: Always rinse live and fresh food under clean running water to remove dirt and dead ones. Culture your own batches, if possible, to avoid harvesting unwanted predators. And scoop out the uneaten ones after each meal because they will eventually die and pollute the water.

Nutritional Requirements

In order to understand what types of foods are essential for your fish, here’s a rundown of the different nutrients that are crucial for fish health and longevity:

1. Proteins – About 50 percent of the total calorie requirement of fish come from proteins. Amino acids, the building blocks of muscles, cells, and tissue are essential, especially for juvenile fish.
2. Carbohydrates – More required by freshwater fish than marine fish, carbohydrates are also necessary for energy and growth.
3. Fatty Acids – The major energy source for most fish, fats are stored in their tissues to provide stamina and serve as storage medium for fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K.
4. Minerals – Abundant sources of minerals exist for fishes in their natural habitat. In an aquarium, fishes will need prepared food fortified with minerals (like calcium for their bone formation).
5. Vitamins - The essential vitamins your fish need are: A (from greens and crustaceans), B-Complex (from greens, eggs, and yeast), C (from greens, algae, and fish eggs), D (from snails, shrimps, and earthworms), E (from algae, greens, and egg yolk), and K (from water fleas, greens, and liver).
6. Fiber - Also a necessary diet component for fish, fiber is abundant in vegetable matter.

Technorati Tags: Aquarium Care, Aquarium Fish, Captive Environment, Community Fish, Different Types Of Fish, Different Types Of Food, Feed The Fish, Filtration System, Fish Communities, Fish Community, Food And Feeding, Food Requirements, Life Span, Little At A Time, Necessary Minerals, Optimum Health, Pet Fish, Ruby Bayan, Small Fish, Types Of Fish, Types Of Food

by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

Many years ago, I got involved in an aquarium decoration contest, where my winning entry was a tall 100-gallon tank that featured a fully set-up 5-gallon tank inside it. I can’t remember what fishes I put in there but I won the gold ribbon. I was proud of my ingenuity.

I often stretch my creativity when I decorate tanks for myself and others, but there are certain limitations and basic guidelines I work with, to ensure that my originality and ingenuity don’t become hazardous to the living creatures I have in my tank.

Pollutants

Water is the universal solvent, and anything that dissolves in water has the potential to pollute your tank environment. Therefore, the following water-soluble materials should never come in contact with the water in your aquarium:

• Paper-based items
• Textile or fabric
• People food

In case of minor pollution accidents, and to minimize the hazardous effects of cloudy and contaminated water, consider adding water-conditioning products like EcoBio-Block, which uses beneficial bacteria to clarify and deodorize the habitat.

Toxic Materials

Chemicals dissolved in water can render your fishes ill in minutes. At high concentrations, toxic materials can kill them in seconds. Exposure to metallic substances that can contaminate the water, even in negligible quantities, can eventually stress the environment and make your pets susceptible to disease.

Here are some of the potentially toxic materials that you should keep away from your tank:

• Metallic objects or toys, figurines, and knick-knacks that contain exposed metals
• Dyed items that leach when wet
• Oily items like crayons, modeling clay
• Items that have come in contact with household chemicals like detergents, pesticides, cleaners, and solvent

Natural but Hazardous

Most often we are misled by the idea that since a decorative item is natural, it’s safe for the aquarium. Since we are maintaining freshwater aquaria, introducing driftwood, rocks, and shells that we picked up along the way can risk upsetting the “freshwater-ness” of the tank.

The rule of thumb is to refrain from introducing anything natural that may have come from a non-freshwater environment. The risk is that these items may be carrying mineral deposits, microorganisms, and parasites that existed in their natural locations.
Rocks, shells, and corals that may be innovative additions to your aquarium may leach calcium and other minerals that will affect the stability of your water composition. Driftwood can leach tannins that your fish may not be able to tolerate.

Many attractive artificial (hard plastic; inert) alternatives are available, and highly recommended, but if you would rather use natural wonders, here are tips to ensure they are safe to include in your setup:

1. Wash the décor in clean running water, scrubbing off all loose particles. Do not use detergent. Boil rocks, shells, and corals for an hour or two for added measure. (Hint: Splash some vinegar on the rock/coral and if it sizzles, the item is calcium-rich and is better suited as a decorative accent on your bookshelf.)
2. Soak the décor in a bucket of clean water for about a week or two and replace the water daily. This will help remove minerals and tannins that could leach in water.
3. Dry the décor under the sun or in an oven to kill microorganisms and parasites that may still lurk within the item.

Moving and Disturbing

Those nifty action aquarium décor that opens and closes and goes up and down animated by bubbles rising from an air-stone can be quite engaging to onlookers. The pirate treasure chest, the little boy fishing, and the cute pearl clam — they look cute and interesting, but did you notice how they make some fishes nervous?
Eventually, the fish will get used to the animated items, but not before several days of stress and anxiety. By the time they get used to the jerky décor, it’s time to pull it out for a cleaning. Then when you put it back in, the fish will become jittery again. So, use your better judgment when using these supposedly attractive decorations.

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