Aquarium Care

There are a lot of Discus fish secrets that you can discover. Among this secrets would be the variety of colours that Discus fishes have. When it arrives to Discus fish secrets, here are all of the things you may now learn from every fishes and how one colour will not be the same as the other.

One typical discus fish disease is gill fluke. This is really typical discus fish disease and is really dangerous for discus fish fry. Gill Flukes are external parasites that destroy the gills and cause heavy breathing and irregular swimming. The discus fish suffering from this illness can turn out to be paralyzed and can sink down towards the bottom of the tank.

Make sure that you quarantine new fish before you introduce them inside your tank. New Discus fish could bring with it bacteria, parasites, or diseases into the tank. New discus fishes ought to be kept safe inside a separate tank to get a period of 2-3 weeks. Another tip on caring for Discus Fish would be to regulate the drinking water temperature. Discus really are a tropical fish, hence they thrive in water temperatures at close to 84 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit

It’s usually better to detect the disease early because the longer they linger, the a lot more it becomes a nuisance. Even if the fish heals following therapy, the wound can leave a permanent scar. Curing the wound although it’s still little is highly suggested. You can cure the illness by increasing the water temperature from 30 degree Celsius to 36 degrees Celsius for a few days. Remember that increased water temperature ought to be combined with increased ventilation to maintain the oxygen degree up. You can combine heat therapy with Metronidazole which is administered orally. Make certain that the discus fish takes this one for every three times.

Make certain that you pick the appropriate food for your discus fish. Discus fish consume live worms, bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. Although you have to become really careful when feeding them with this because these foods introduce bacteria and parasites into your tank.

If the discus fish can still consume, you can prepare a solution of 200 ml water and 10 ml liquid Metronidazole and soak its food in individuals substances for an hour. Feed the discus fish with the medicated food every 2 times for a period of 10 times. If the fish is no longer eating, you will have to feed it forcefully by using a syringe without having a needle.

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Compared to other things, aquariums usually require very little care and daily attention. In fact, if you started maintenance on your aquarium by the time you begin reading this article, you will probably have been through before you even finish the article. So what is involved in aquarium care? We are going to look at four aspects of aquarium care that you will find very beneficial.

One has to do with the lighting. One thing you have to remember is that aquarium light does not need to be on at all times except when observing or feeding the fish or if the aquarium contains any live plants. The room light is generally considered sufficient and will keep the finish fairly active. In fact, leaving the light on for long periods can even cause algae growth explosions which of course you do not want. So how can you ensure consistent light and dark cycles are maintained, especially if you are a forgetful aquarium owner? You can install an inexpensive electrical timer that will turn the lights on and off and this will probably leave you with peace of mind knowing that your fish are getting the right doses of light.

Good aquarium care also means that you feed the fish two or three times per day and for only two or three minutes per feeding session. If you are a beginner, this may require some practice until you know the correct amounts of food to give. Do not overfeed the fish. The side effects are obvious; the water quality deteriorates, there is increased algae growth, the water gets cloudy and this often results in fish being prone to infections and diseases. This is as a result of uneaten food that accumulates in the aquarium.

Good aquarium care also means taking the time to simply observe the fish behavior especially during mealtimes. Look to see if every fish has got something to eat. Look out for fish that are picky about their food. Of course, each type of fish acts differently and it may take some time to determine ‘normal’ behavior for each fish type. If you take time each day to make this observation, your experience will grow.

Also do not forget to check the aquarium equipment and ensure that everything is working as it is supposed to. Consider the various pumps, heaters and filters as the life support system of the fish. This should be done daily. Excellent aquarium care takes some time and experience and is also a source of joy when you realize that your fish are safe and happy in their aquarium habitat.

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Aquarium cleaning is a monthly task that must be done weather or not you want to do it. If you do it right the process can be very easy or difficult. The size of your tank can depend on how long it takes to clean. If you have a very big tank, and the tank is established then you may not want to vacuum out all of the debris it is good for the fishes growth and development. If you have a smaller tank the tank will take longer to be established and you may want to vacuum out all the debris.

When cleaning a tank, changing the filters is the first step. If you have a bio filter, or power filter changing the filters is a breeze. A under gravel filter is another story. You must remove all the plants, decor and accessories. Then you must pull it out from under the gravel to clean.

Once the filters are cleaned, replace them with new ones. If you have an underground filter do not replace it back in the tank yet. If you have an established tank then leave the plants and decor, even if they have algae on them. If you do not have an established tank or smaller tank (ten gallon or smaller) then wash off all the plants and decor. If you have real plants do not wash them.

After the accessories, decor and plants have been washed do not place them back in the tank yet. The next step is to siphon the tank. Siphon no more than one third of the water out of the tank. Siphoning the tank is just like vacuuming the tanks. Be careful not to vacuum up any small fish. If there is still debris at the bottom of the tank fill it with water and re siphon until all debris is gone. If you have an established tank then only siphon out some of the debris and leave a little in the gravel.

When replacing the water only use soft water so the fish do not die of shock. Soft water is water without minerals. Tap water or filtered water is considered soft water. After the water has been replaced remember to not fill the tank too high because, the plants, decor and filters have to still be added.

Replace the under gravel filter if you have one. Also consider in investing a power filter, this will make your life a lot easier. Then replace the plants and decor. You’re all done, and now your tank is clean. Remember that cleaning a tank can be traumatizing for the fish, so they might be timid for a while after the clean.

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Testing of water in a fresh water aquarium involves two steps, the first is when you first start an aquarium and the second stage is when the tank has already been established and you have fish in them.

Fish thrive or die, depending on the water quality, so it is imperative for their health that you understand the sort of conditions and the quality of water that your fish need to live healthily. This is not uniform for all fishes, so a bit of study is necessary.

Procedure for a new fish tank:

You first need to establish that the nitrogen cycle has taken place. This is important because after this cycle has occurred it is safe to add fish. Fish waste and undigested food lead to an ammonia spike. This is the first stage of the nitrogen cycle and you can detect this by an Ammonia test. After this friendly bacteria called Nirosomonas start to breed, causing a nitrate spike. This is the second stage of the nitrogen cycle.

The third stage occurs when nitrospira bacteria breed converting the dangerous nitrite into less harmful nitrates. Once this occurs it is safe to add fish. Add the fish gradually, testing the water every couple of days, partially changing the water if there is too much ammonia or nitrite in it. This cycle takes place over a few weeks so it is important to keep testing the water so that you know which stage of the cycle you are on.

There are three test kits that are a must for any fish tank owner, to monitor the nitrogen cycle, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate testing kits. You also need a pH testing kit to check the water for acidity. This is important because if there is too much of a difference in the acidity level of the tank they lived in before you bought them, they may die of stress or shock.

Once your tank is established you do not need to keep on testing all the time. However, you still need to check the water for nitrates. Even though nitrates are not as harmful as the nitrites and ammonia, too much nitrate can also be detrimental to the health of your fish. To avoid any kind of problems, make it your habit to check the water quality and carry out regular water changes so that your fish are healthy and active. You can control the nitrate build up by adding plants and nitrate eating fish to your tank and monitoring the quality of water.

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The guppyis the most popular exotic fish

The Guppy is not only the most popular exotic fish, but it has been the most important in the development and spread of the aquarium hobby. Its bright colors of infinite variety, its lively habits, its ability to stand crowding, together with the fact (always so interesting to the novice) that it is a livebearer; all these assets combine to make a quick conquest of the casual observer, who gets “hooked” before he knows it. It is therefore not too far—fetched that someone has called it the “Missionary Fish,” so many have been its converts to the ranks of aquarists.

Nor are its devotees by any means confined to beginners. In a hobby like ours in which there are so many fishes from which to choose, and to which new importations are steadily added, there are bound to be favorites come up that hold the spotlight for a time. Many have come and gone, but, like the poor, the Guppy is always with us.

Another thing about the Guppy that appeals to the advanced aquarist is its adaptability to modification through selective breeding. It is exceptional in that respect, both as to color pattern and fin formation. Most of our interesting creations among the livebearers are the results of cross—breeding between closely- related species. While Mr. Guppy shows no individual attachment to any one mate, he is, nevertheless, a “good family man,” as far as species is concerned. He is usually either unwilling or unable to fertilize a female of another species. The very few of his illegitimate children have been sterile or died young.

In my time I have had my home so populated with aquariums that my wife and children have almost been crowded out. Now all that is radically changed. I now keep only two tanks at home. One is a temporary hotel for anything “new” until it is fingerprinted and photographed. The other is a small tank set up for my own pleasure and relaxation. It contains nothing but carefully selected Guppies! Admiration for them never loses its freshness.

Among the various types of Guppies that we see nowadays, there is a strain of rather large size having a dark tail fin. This is known as the “Trinidad Guppy.” The native Guppies are only about half the size of our domesticated stock, and the vast majority of them have poor colors. It therefore seems that intelligent selective breeding has certainly greatly improved on the original stock.

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