Aquarium Care

Dropsy is a very common, very fatal disease that attacks the betta fish’s internal organs. Very little is known about dropsy, except that it causes kidney failure. No one knows what causes dropsy

Dropsy can be treated with “Maracyn 2″. this is the typical treatment for several ailments such as inner infections, tail rot and gill infections. This antibiotic must be absorbed by the Betta FishCleaning and changeing the water as well as raising the temperature in the tank is a good idea.

Fungal infections generally happen because of bad water conditions. They become visible as white fluffy growths on the betta fish’s mouth, eyes, and fins and are highly infectious.

The Treatment for fungal infections is: Increase the temperature of the betta fish tank. Fungal infections is an outcome of cooler water temperatures. Medicines including Malachite green or Methylene blue are also useful. Malachite green is a totally harmless and helpful cure in fresh and salt water on a wide variety of protozoan, crustacean, and other invertebrate parasites of fishes. Adding ordinary table salt (sodium chloride) to the water, one teaspoon per gallon can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time.

If the water temperature in your tank falls below 80 degrees you may have a battle with Ich or (Ichthyophthirius multifilius) What looks like grains of sugar appearing on the fins and body is a sure indication of Ich.

Useing Malachite green or Methylene blue treatments and adding salt to the tank will help. You must adjust the water temperature to over eighty degrees.

Velvet/Oodinium is an algae parasite found on several freshwater fish. This ailment emerges as a yellow “velvety” covering on the betta fish’s body. It may also become visible as golden or rust colored. It is habitually found in fish which are anxious due to chilling, shipping, water changes or bad water quality. Symptoms comprises of fast breathing and lethargy.

Treatment for Velvety is Raised water temperature and medicines like acriflavine, Methylene Blue or Jungle’s “velvet guard” should help cure this parasite. Bowls or tanks should be drained and unsoiled. Dyes must not be used as they have mercury.

Weaker Betta Fish are suseptable to Fin Rot.

The use of antibiotics and anti-micrbials is used in the treatment of Fin Rot. Adding a teaspoon of table salt and raising the temperature of the water in the tank will help. A common antibiotic tablet is Maracyn 2.

John Anderson has been raising and Caring for Betta Fishfor many years and has compiled a very practical free guide for you at Betta Fish Diseases You will find a lot of facts and some fun.. Also published at How to treat identifieable Betta Fish Diseases.

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Whether it’s your first aquarium or you are an expert aquarist, bringing fish home from the store can be a tricky task for everyone. Getting your fish home safely can be easy or very difficult. With a few steps your fish can arrive home and be happy and healthy. The distance to get your fish is a big factor in getting your pets home safely. Longer distance can cause hardships for the fish and yourself.

If at all possible the best thing to do, for the fish is to take them home ASAP. The fish can survive for only awhile in the bags they come it. The bags are filled with air and the fish can live only for a while without airflow.

If you live far away you should either plan to bring the fish home or bring a small aquarium to put fish in. If you need to do other things plan and get the fish last on your trip. If this is not possible, bring a small plastic tank and make sure you leave the fish in a cool place.

The fish can overheat and freeze, but if someone is with the fish they will be fine. Leaving the fish in the bags is fine, for a short period of time. The fish cannot survive long without airflow. If it is possible the fish should be put in a plastic tank.

When the fish are home there is one step left to insure their security to the tank. If the fish were in the small tank, put them back in the bags. Float the bags in the tank for at lest twenty minutes to get the fish used to the water. When the fish are acclimated net out he fish and put them in the tank. Do not dump the water into your tank; you can avoid diseases and bad water by not pouring out the water into your tank.

Float the fish the fish in the tank for around thirty minutes. After they have been exposed to the temperature of the tank, release them into the tank. A good tip is to not pour the water from the bags into the tank. Putting water that is from other tanks could be contaminated. Net out the fish and put them in the tank the tank. Putting the fish in the tank without the bag water can also prevent diseases.

Roshan Goodman gives tips on aquarium advice and on starting a fish tank.

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by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

Prevention is always better than cure, so making sure that the aquarium environment is always ideal is your best preventive measure against illnesses. This means regular check-ups on the optimum efficiency of the equipment, constant monitoring of the integrity of the water condition and temperature, diligent precautions against introducing harmful elements into the environment, and most importantly, a close eye on the fishes themselves. Keeping informed on the latest innovations in water conditioning for fish health is also important; for example, beneficial bacteria found in products like EcoBio-Block could help prevent infections and disease.

However, sometimes, no matter how cautious or diligent you are at ensuring the health of your fishes, untoward circumstances bring about health problems that need serious attention. If only for this unpredictable occurrence of fish ailments, you should be ready with enough know-how on ways to address fish health problems.

Bacterial and Fungal Infections

The most common health problem among aquarium fish is infection from bacteria and fungus. The primary culprit is usually bad water quality. Pollution due to the rotting of uneaten food, irregular water changes, and poor tank maintenance contribute to the deterioration of the habitat — this makes the fishes weak and susceptible to infections.

Stress, from mishandling, introduction of aggressive or incompatible species, and habitat disturbances, also leave the fishes traumatized and susceptible to diseases. Malnutrition, or an inappropriate diet, aggravates the situation – anything considered malnourished is definitely taking a serious health risk.

Here are some examples of bacterial and fungal infections, and how to deal with them:

• Fin Rot – Fish with long, trailing fins are most susceptible to fin rot – a degeneration and inflammation of the fin rays and membranes. Aside from poor water quality and vitamin deficiency, fin rot is often the result of infections arising from damage brought about by mishandling, as well as fin-nipping attacks from tank mates. Infected fish should be removed and the affected areas treated with commercially available anti-bacterial fish medicine. Remedy water condition and compatibility problems, as well as diet deficiencies to prevent the spread of the ailment.

• Fungus – Aside from bacteria, fungus can attack the areas on the fish body that has suffered some extent of damage (such as wounds or holes left by parasites). Cotton-like fungal growth appears as patches that give the fish a dull, shabby appearance. To treat fungal infections, subject the tank to a fungicide remedy. Address other possible causes like poor water quality, parasites, and aggressive tank mates.
• Pop-Eye – One of the more serious bacterial infections is called pop-eye, marked by inflamed eyes protruding from the sockets. Looking very sickly, fish infected with pop-eye usually contract the ailment because of poor water quality, mishandling or distress from fighting with other fishes. Antibiotics may be effective but, if the infection has progressed to a form of tuberculosis, the afflicted fish may have to be removed and euthanized.

Parasites

On rare occasions, even the most cautious aquarist can unknowingly introduce parasites into a well-maintained tank. New fishes, live food, live plants, and some decorations are all potential carriers of aquatic parasites. Here are some of the parasites you should watch for:

• Fish Lice – Also known as Argulus, fish lice, looking like transparent flat disks, attach themselves to the skin and suck on the fish’s blood. The fish feels itchy and scratches itself on the substrate or on rocks and other hard décor.
• Anchor Worm – Lernaea, or anchor worms, are greenish-white threadlike organisms that attach themselves to the body of the fish. The skin becomes inflamed and the fish scratches the affected area on hard surfaces in the tank.
• Leeches – Worm-like leeches attach themselves to the host fish to feed on its blood. The fish feels the irritating suckers and tries to scratch them off on the substrate, rocks, or wood.

To treat parasite infestations, remove the afflicted fish from the tank, and with a pair of tweezers, pull the parasites off. Apply antiseptic to the wounds. Proprietary treatments against specific parasites are commercially available. You will have to treat the whole tank to prevent further proliferation of these harmful organisms.

Other Ailments

Aside from attacks by bacterial, fungus, and parasites, fish also suffer from other maladies, mostly related to intestinal or organ problems. For example:

• Dropsy – Characterized by a severely swollen or bloated abdomen and is believed to be caused primarily by poor water quality (high nitrate or sodium chloride levels) and malnutrition. Remedy, therefore, involves correcting the habitat conditions and the fish diet.
• Constipation – Sometimes the fish fails to digest food properly due to a poor diet and overfeeding. Constipated and bloated, the afflicted fish will not want to eat; hardly discharging feces, and feeling weak, it will often rest on the substrate. Experts suggest adding a teaspoon of Epsom salts to every 10 liters (2 gallons) of tank water, and then making sure that the fish is fed the right food in proper quantities.
• Swim Bladder Disease – Poor water quality, mishandling, and congenital disorder are the main causes of swim bladder disease. The afflicted fish has difficulty staying upright, oftentimes swimming upside down or sideways. Antibiotics and improvement of the water conditions can correct bacterial infection due to a poor habitat. Congenital disorders and permanent swim bladder damage, however, may be irreparable, therefore, euthanasia should be considered.

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