Aquarium Care

Aquarium canister filters are responsible for the mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration of particulates in your aquarium water. They come in different sizes but most are small enough that they do not dominate your aquarium. They are often called submersible filters because they are placed inside the tank and not hung on the side. Tank filters are a requirement in all tanks, but they are very important in tanks which contain fish that are messy eaters.

Knowing the type of filter for your tank

There are three types of filters depending on the function. Mechanical filters remove debris and other particles from the water with a foam layer or any other type of porous material. Mechanical filters are a must for all tanks. A chemical filter removes dissolved materials with a carbon layer. This is most effective for removing ammonia but it is also useful in removing metals and odors.

Biological filters do the job that is not finished by the previous two kinds of filters. They contain beneficial bacteria called nitrofiers that remove harmful wastes.

How to maintain your filter

Regular cleaning for your aquarium canister when is a must because aquarium filters do the main part of cleaning the tank and they tend to collect a lot of debris quickly. Accumulated debris can clog your filter and this could lead to an accumulation of harmful toxins in the tank.

You clean the filters when you replace the tank water, removing the filter and taking it apart so you can clean the individual parts like the impellers, tubings and intake and outlet pipes, and the main body. You can lubricate the parts of the filter using petroleum jelly or liquid silicone before putting the tank parts back together and reinstalling the filter.

Choosing aquarium canister filters

There are some factors that you need to consider when choosing a filter. For one, you need a filter that has easily replaceable parts since there will come a time when you need to replace parts such as rubber gaskets and impellers. Make sure that your store regularly stocks on filter parts so you can easily get a replacement when one is needed. You also need to choose aquarium canister filters that are easy to remove, clean, and reinstall. You may need the help of an expert when putting up the filter for the first time, but subsequent cleanings will require you to handle the disassembly and the reassembly yourself. Also make sure that the filter is easy to use in case of emergencies when you have to stop the filter.

Get to know your filter before you buy, such as how to assemble and disassemble it. You can get an expert to teach you how to install the filter for the first time so you can do it yourself later on.

Jeffry Johnston is a pet store owner and an aquarium enthusiast who finds happiness in helping others succeed in raising healthy, happy fish as well. He is a member and guest speaker at many aquarium clubs, as well as having a few very large tanks of his own. To learn more about aquarium filters and other aquarium equipment, pleasego to marinedepot.com.

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It must make any aquarium enthusiast cringe, having to feed his fish every day in the same water that they swim in, breathe in and release their bodily wastes in. If it were not for reasons of yuckiness that that such a situation could not be allowed, it would certainly be objectionable for the way this would poison the water and make it incapable of sustaining aquatic life. How do you treat your fish to a better life then? If the fish lived in a natural water body, a pond or stream, there would be enough clean water in the system that all the bodily waste would not make a difference; in a closed water body like an aquarium, it comes down to the owner of the aquarium to do something to constantly clean and freshen the water the fish live in, to give them a reasonable standard of living. Aquarium filters are the answer; though there are so many, they can hardly be called one answer.

The empathetic aquarium owner must worry most about the health implications of having his fish swimming around in a weak solution of their own bodily waste. What must all the bacteria and other pathogens in the water do to the fish? Do their eyes sting; do they breathe with difficulty in such a toxic water cocktail? Biological aquarium filters are the solution to such concerns. A biological filter is a unit that encourages the growth of beneficial bacteria inside it. These bacteria subsist on the bodily waste of fish; and they break down the poisonous ammonia in the waste into nitrogen compounds, nitrites and nitrates and these are a great way to take the sting out of the problem.

Under-gravel filters are a great example of biological aquarium filters; they’re not marketed as effectively these days, owing to the fact that they are simple to build, and offer no opportunity for a killer markup, but are very effective. The idea is that the filter is placed under the bed of the aquarium; water is drawn through the gravel over the bed; the gravel filters out a large part of the suspended debris, and the bacteria that live in the gravel take care of the ammonia. The water is drawn down and sent back up after purification by message of an air stone or a powerhead.

One of the best options that modern aquarium filter technology provides is the canister filter. Canister aquarium filters force the water in an aquarium through a variety of filters and cycle the entire contents of an aquarium every hour. The result is a visibly bright and clean and aquarium that manages to be free of most kinds of impurities. A minor drawback to this type of aquarium filter is the way it keeps drawing all the water through its system constantly; this action creates quite a strong current in the tank that can be annoying to some fish.

One of the most satisfying kinds of aquarium filter to use is the sump variety. Basically a sump aquarium filter is a large aquarium-like tank by itself, used exclusively for water purification in the main tank. The sump is sectioned off into three or four areas, each one installed with a different kind of water purification system. These aquarium filters are mostly the domain of experienced do-it-yourselfers; you could have a sump with a compartment for beneficial plants, one for gravel and charcoal purification, and so on. It is easy to be bitten by the purification bug and let it run away with you though. The final test of how successful your attempts are, rests in the health of your fish population. If your veterinarian certifies them to be as healthy as can be, there’s no reason why you should not congratulate yourself on a job well done.

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Just like how you need fresh, clean air to breathe, so do the fish in your aquarium. Thus, water treatment and purification is essential in keeping your aquarium safe for your fish. One of the devices that can help you do that is a protein skimmer. Through this device, you take out organic wastes from the water and keep them from becoming ammonia and nitrates that can harm your fish.

A protein skimmer is a device that initiates the process of foam fractionation or protein skimming. Basically, this involves the process of injecting air bubbles into the water supply to remove dissolved organic compounds. When the air bubbles come in contact with the water, the impurities in the water stick with the air bubbles and rise up as foam on the surface. The foam can then be collected and removed from the water supply. The sludge and the scum that results from this can be removed through a collection reservoir designed for this function. This leaves the water in the aquarium clean and sanitized.

There are several methods on how to do this, but the general considerations are that the water and air bubbles should have longer contact with each other to ensure maximum filtration. Another thing to note is the amount and size of the air bubbles produced by the protein skimmer. More bubbles and bubbles sized at 0.5 to 1 mm. are optimal.

There are three general types of protein skimmers you can choose from. These are counter current, venturi, and turbo protein skimmers.

A counter current skimmer works by blowing air bubbles against the water flowing in a different direction. For this to work, you will need a separate water and air pump. You need a long tube to ensure full contact between the water and air bubbles. Since this is usually placed inside the aquarium, the length of the tube is decided by the height of the aquarium.

Venturi protein skimmers depend on water pressure and a venturi tube for filtration. Water is pressurized and then shot into a venturi tube. The venturi tube is narrow at one point of the tube, and has an air intake tube near the constriction point. As pressurized water is forced through, this creates a difference in pressure, which sucks in air from the intake tube and creates the air bubbles. The water flows through a reservoir, which increases contact or dwell between the air bubbles and the water for better water purification. The advantage to this type is that you only need a water pump, and that it has more dwell time, which makes for more effective water treatment.

Turbo protein skimmers, also called needle wheel skimmers, work by combining air and water then forcing them through a blade to create air bubbles. The water and air mixture are forced through the blade, then through a reservoir by a water pump. As the water is forced up through a tube, it creates more contact between the water and air bubbles for better water purification.

Aside from the three qualities of a good protein skimmer, you also need to consider its installation. You should look for one that can be easily integrated with your current filtration system. You also have to look at the additional equipment that you need to get, like water pumps or air pumps. Placement is also important, such as whether it’s in-tank or hanging out from the rim.

Another consideration is price. Of course, the more expensive ones are more effective. It would depend on how much you’re willing to shell out for a protein skimmer. You do need to remember that having a good protein skimmer ensures that water purity in your aquarium, which means fewer water changes and a healthier environment for your fish.

Guss Fitzgerald is an expert author and aquarium owner. He has gained a great understanding of aquarium protein skimmers and other aquarium products from his several years of experience owning aquarium fish. To learn more about proper aquarium maintenance please visit MarineDepot.com.

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Did you ever think you couldn’t have fish because “they just die”? If all your fish die within a week of buying them, it’s not just the fish. The most common cause of mass fish deaths is an improperly cycled tank. Before you buy any fish, it’s absolutely imperative to make sure your aquarium is well-cycled.

What is cycling? Simply put, the cycling process is the time it takes to set up a biological filter for the nitrogen cycle to function inside the aquarium. Your aquarium is much more than a tank full of water, it has to be an entire contained eco-system to keep your fish healthy. The goal with your cycling time is to develop a culture of beneficial bacteria (or “bio-bugs”) that will break down the ammonia from the fish’s waste into nitrites, and then from nitrites into nitrates. Ammonia is extremely toxic to your fish and will kill them very quickly with much less than one part per million in your aquarium.

There are several methods for cycling. This is a method that is very effective, easy to do even for beginners and does not subject any live creatures to the potentially deadly cycling process. First, set up your aquarium with filtration, heater, aerator, etc. and fill with water. Add whatever de-chlorinator you prefer; if you’re not sure what’s in your water be sure you use a treatment that eliminates or neutralizes chlorine, chloramines and potentially harmful metals. With the filter running, add a tiny amount of fish food…about one or two flakes. The food can be old, stale food that’s no good for feeding anymore — it’s only there to rot. As the food decomposes it will produce the ammonia that will feed the bio-bugs as they get established in your aquarium.

That’s it! Keep adding one or two flakes every day throughout the cycling process, then do a partial water change before you add fish. It’s safe to add fish when both ammonia and nitrites test at zero but there are nitrates in the tank to show that ammonia is actually being broken down. A full cycle takes 36 days to complete, though some hardier fish can be added after a couple of weeks as long as you keep a close eye on the water parameters.

Don’t want to wait 36 days? There are a few products on the market that can help speed up the process. There are bottled, refrigerated products such as Bio-Spira that can give the cycle a big boost by adding the bio-bugs directly (via a liquid) instead of having to wait for them to get established in the aquarium. The only problem I’ve found with those products is that you add them, it boosts the bacteria, and that’s the end of its use. One great cycle-time reducer is the EcoBio-Block. This product is a little more expensive than Bio-Spira, but you get a lot better value for your money.

To use the EcoBio-Block, rinse it off in some de-chlorinated water and then place it in the tank after the water has been treated and filtration is going. Make sure you set it somewhere near the aerator or below the flow of an HOB filter (the kind that hang on the back of your aquarium). The EcoBio-Block has the beneficial bacteria the aquarium needs sealed into it; the flow of water facilitates the dissolving of the seal and ensures that the bio-bugs get the oxygen they need. These blocks can take a couple of weeks to start working (though sometimes they work much faster), and once it’s working you’ll be able to begin adding the fish you want, hardy or not, because this effectively finishes the cycle. Test your water; it may not be necessary to do a partial water change before adding fish unless there’s an excess of decomposed fish food in the bottom. Don’t take the block out! The EcoBio-Block is still useful for about 1 1/2 to 2 years; it’ll keep the bio-bug population healthy and contains all the trace minerals that normally have to be replenished through water changes. The minerals are time-released into the water to keep it healthy without constant water changes.

In short, the cycling process is simple but time-consuming. If you decide to shorten the cycle time take care with which product you purchase to help, there are a lot on the market that don’t actually do what you need. The above have proven to be good, reliable products that greatly aid with this process. Once you’ve achieved a good biological filter and the nitrogen cycle is up and running, you can start adding the fish!

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Healthy tank with EcoBio-Stone

An aquarium is an ongoing responsibility and requires daily attention, though if you keep up with the regular maintenance it is quite easy and doesn’t take much time. There are additional maintenance procedures required with various conditions, but here are a few things that must be done in every aquarium regardless of other factors.

Daily Maintenance

While fish do not necessarily need to be fed daily to be healthy due to their opportunistic eating habits and specialized metabolism, they do need to be checked daily and this is best done during feeding. Feed at a time that you have a few minutes to observe your fish and watch carefully for any abnormal behavior or signs of illness. What are you looking for? A healthy fish should be free of any marks, especially red or white marks that can suggest infection or parasites, should not struggle to swim in any way and should not have fins clamped down.

Watch the fish eat to ensure all are active, move easily in the water, and their fins are up. If you notice ragged edges on any fins there may be fish in the aquarium getting picked on, or the fish may be getting their fins caught on rough edges on decorations or artificial plants. If the aquarium is fairly new or new fish have recently been added, watch closely for redness or puffiness around the gills that may indicate ammonia in the water. If any abnormalities are observed, test your water parameters first and if they are within acceptable limits research other possible causes.

If desired, wipe down the outside of the aquarium with a damp cloth every day to remove fingerprints and dust. Never use any chemicals such as Windex near the aquarium as even the slightest trace of such products will kill the fish.

Weekly Maintenance

Depending on your stocking levels, you will need to do a partial water change every week or every other week. This is to keep nitrate levels down and keep essential dissolved minerals at a healthy level for the fish. These water changes generally need to be between 30-50% of the total water volume. In a newer tank that is still cycling or if new fish have just been added, water changes may also be needed to control ammonia and nitrites, though it will likely be more often than once a week for that purpose. For a healthier tank and a significantly reduced risk of ammonia spikes, you can use a time-released water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Block. These blocks last up to two years apiece and keep the water in the aquarium perfectly balanced by breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrites from fish waste and uneaten food, as well as re-supplying essential minerals in the water as they’re used up by the fish which dramatically reduces the need for water changes.

Algae grow regularly in aquariums and, if visible on underwater surfaces, should be manually scraped off with a scraper sponge that is approved specifically for aquariums. A sponge that is not specifically for an aquarium may scratch glass and acrylic and may have been manufactured with chemicals that are harmful to fish. Filter pads should be rinsed out in a dish of aquarium water to remove excess organic material and then placed back in the filter. Tap water should never be used as the filter pad contains a lot of beneficial bacteria that will die if exposed to chlorine or chloramines, which are removed in tank water with a de-chlorinating water treatment. Top off the water to replace any that has evaporated and the amount used to rinse out the filter pad.

Monthly Maintenance

Every month the aquarium needs a thorough gravel vacuum to remove organic material such as uneaten food and fish waste from the substrate, as well as remove potentially harmful pockets of gasses that can build up in the substrate over time if it is not stirred. If you use EcoBio-Block in the aquarium then you need only stir the substrate manually once or twice a month to help excess organic material get into the filter where it can easily be removed from the system through rinsing filter pads, which can save a lot of time, effort and mess over a traditional gravel vacuum.

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