Aquarium Care

by Ruby Bayan

“Help me! It’s my fish! I just fed them this morning, none of them looked sick. Now they’re dead!” Bob’s voice quivered over the phone.

“Take it easy, Bob. I’ll be right there.” You rush to your friend’s house to find him sobbing over the coffee table where two of his favorite Oscars lay dead on a paper towel.
You examine the fishes — there are no indications of disease. No white spots, no reddish lesions, no parasites attached, and no hole in the head.

“I was gone for just a couple of hours.” Bob explains. “When I got back, they were…” he chokes.

You know Bob to be especially fond of his fishes and had been successful in raising his Oscars for quite a while now. This is clearly one of those “mysterious death” cases — a challenge, surely, but not impossible to solve.

“I’m sorry about your Oscars, Bob. Just relax and let me look around to see if I can determine the cause of death — maybe find the murder weapon. This will have to be a crime scene investigation.” You get excited at the prospect of solving a mystery. Bob can only hold back his tears, comforted by your presence and concern.

Examining the Scene of the Crime

You approach the 50-gallon aquarium and give it a close look. The first thing you eliminate as the cause of death is incompatibility. Bob had no other fishes in the tank that could compete with the Oscars. You spot three Siamese Algae eaters doing their thing among the plants in the background. They couldn’t possibly have harassed a couple of 4-inch Oscars to death.
Oscars of this size are still relatively juvenile, so, they obviously didn’t die of old age.

Could it have been lack of oxygen? Certainly the tank is far from being overstocked, so you look for decaying food and rotting debris that could sap the oxygen level. The tank looks impeccably clean — for an Oscar environment. Bob had been taking care of his fishes well. In fact, he had added an EcoBio-Block, strategically located close to the airstone.

The next thing you check is the decor. Bob can be extra creative with his decor. Had he also been safety-conscious? You’ve seen him experiment with electric blue substrate and sleepy-hollow-type driftwood, so you want to check out how innovative he has been with the decorations in what is now the scene of the crime.

Could one of the rock pile formations have toppled over and hit the Oscars while they frolicked underneath? Could the fast-growing fish have been accidentally stuck in a hole or crevice? Are there any sharp or pointed formations that could’ve caused a fatal concussion of the highly active couple? You look through the front, side, and back of the tank — negative on all counts.

Signs of Breaking and Entering

You turn to Bob, his gaze frozen on his dearly departed pets. “They look like they’re just sleeping,” he whispers.

“I need to ask you a few questions, Bob. Are you up to it?”

“Sure. Ye.” Bob raises his eyes for just a second, and takes a deep breath.

“We’re going to try and eliminate the possibility that contamination or the introduction of something toxic caused your Oscars’ death.” You proceed with the investigation, trying to sound very professional.

“Did you recently medicate the tank?” Malachite green and methylene blue are common medication for parasites and fungus, but extended use or an overdose can also kill the beneficial bacteria that help maintain the ideal environmental conditions in the tank. The death and absence of the bacteria can lead to an ammonia or nitrite spike that kill fish in no time. Bob said he has had no need to administer any type of medication.

“Did you bring in new fish that you failed to quarantine before including in the tank?” Newly bought fish come from “unknown” environments — although looking healthy, they could be contaminated with all sorts of microorganisms and parasites that could unleash a fatal and unpredictable epidemic. The same is true with the water the new fish were transported in.

Bob assures you he always quarantines new fish, and the newest one he put in that tank was a couple of the algae eaters, several months ago.

“Do you have sick fishes in your other tanks?” Bob has two other tanks and you’re wondering if he has sick fishes in there. Because if he does, he should not be sharing nets, scrapers, decor, and equipment between sick tanks and well tanks due to the risk of contamination. He should even be washing his hands well after doing any form of maintenance on hospital or quarantine tanks.

“Nobody has been sick lately. I’ve been very careful with contamination,” Bob answers, almost resenting your insinuations.

“Did you just do a water change?” You’re thinking it’s possible that Bob may have done a considerable water change and he may have forgotten how much chlorine the tap water has.

High concentrations of chlorine attack the fishes’ gills and can cause death due to asphyxiation.

Before you can follow up on that question, Bob shoots back with, “The last one was five days ago, and, yes, I always make sure the new water has no chlorine, and has the same pH and temperature as the water in the tank.” Okay, so that’s out of the way.

“Would you mind if I look at your supply of fish food?”

Bob points to the side of the stand where he keeps his containers of flakes and pellets. “The frozen food are in a covered plastic container in the freezer,” he adds. You check the expiration dates on all of the labels, and examine the food for molds or unusual appearance. Even the best fish food can turn into something lethal. You ask Bob if he trusts his live food vendors — he swears by them.

You give the tank a second look for anything potentially toxic to the Oscars. Could Bob have introduced a new decor that he failed to clean? Is any of the stuff in his tank water soluble or metallic? Once again, nothing raises suspicion. It’s time to test the water.

The Lab Reports

“Where’s your water test kit, Bob?”

As Bob pulls out his kit, you glance quickly at the tank’s thermometers — one close to the surface at one end of the tank, the other submerged close to the bottom at the other end. Both of them read 75 degrees.

Meticulously, Bob arranges his testing paraphernalia and volunteers to check the water himself. He starts with the pH. Because his tank had been long established, he expects the pH to be a little below the neutral 7.0. A high reading would indicate the possibility of high and toxic ammonia content. The pH test reads 6.5. And the ammonia level comes out normal (below .3 mg/liter), which is expected because if ammonia had been high, the water would’ve had a yellowish tint and given off a pungent smell.

How about nitrite or nitrate poisoning? In ideal conditions, the ammonia released by fishes through respiration and excretion are converted to nitrites (by beneficial bacteria), which are then converted to nitrates (also by beneficial bacteria), which are then absorbed by plants as fertilizers. Nitrates become toxic above 100 mg/liter, but this shouldn’t happen if Bob had been doing regular water changes. Besides, he knew that the EcoBio-Block would’ve done its job providing the beneficial bacteria that controls ammonia, and nitrite levels and also appears to have some effect on nitrates as well.

Nitrite poisoning ranks high in the list of culprits for the Oscars’ death because it kills almost instantly and its victims die in full color. When the oxygen supply in the water becomes insufficient, brought about by overstocking, overfeeding, decaying food and debris, and improper filtration or aeration, nitrites are not converted to nitrates. At nitrite levels of higher than 10 mg/liter, the water becomes toxic to most fishes.

“If it’s nitrite poisoning I have only myself to blame,” Bob sighs. Afraid of the truth, he makes you conduct the test. Result: normal. You hit another dead end.

More Poisons

You widen the area of inspection and look around the room for any telltale evidence of another kind of poisoning — biohazards.

Toxic fumes dissolve in water and although a bit remote, it can accumulate to a level deadly enough to the residents of an aerated aquarium.

“Has anyone come in the room to clean?” You ask Bob who looks more composed now.
Bob looks at you and glances around what he always refers to as his domain of organized chaos. “Does it look like someone came in to clean?” He drops a hint of sarcasm.

“I’m just wondering — someone may have used an aerosol detergent or glass cleaner pretty close to the tank. Those wood shine sprays, furniture cleaners, and carpet deodorizers can contain toxic chemicals, you know. You sure you didn’t use them lately then submerged your hand in the aquarium? Just want to be sure.”

Bob gives you the what-the-hell-are-you-talking-about look. So, instead of asking another question, you just make a mental note that he doesn’t smoke and it doesn’t look like paint fumes is a suspect. You move on.

“Do you know if you have copper plumbing? I read that copper poisoning is a real threat to fish. Copper is sometimes used in medicines to fight snails and algae. And copper pipes can contaminate tap water.” You just want to cover all the bases. Bob says the house was built just two years ago and he doubts they used copper pipes for plumbing. He’s never had to deal with snails or treat algae with chemicals.

“There wouldn’t be copper or other metal ores in your rock decor, would there?”

“Are you kidding?” Bob says. “Those rocks are inert — hard plastic. Looks real, huh?”

You’re running out of options. But there are still a few things you haven’t explored. You wanted to save it for last because you’re hoping you wouldn’t have to confront Bob with the idea that he had been killing his fishes very slowly for the longest time.

Slow Death

When humans suffer from stress, anxiety disorders, and unrelieved tension, their immune systems malfunction and the end result is mayhem of disorders such as headaches, muscle pain, poor coordination, depression, and a nervous breakdown.

Fish are also highly susceptible to stress that weakens the immune system. It’s possible that prolonged exposure to stress is the root cause of the sudden, yet inevitable, death of Bob’s Oscars. You want to know what could possibly have been stressful to the fishes. You start ruling out the obvious.

“You haven’t been moving the fishes around, have you?” You sit beside Bob and join him in staring at the tank that now looks so empty.

“Nope.” Bob answers quickly. “I’ve been tempted to hold them — they’re very friendly. They come to me when I approach the tank. They know when it’s time to feed them. But I’ve never held them. I’m afraid I’d hurt them.”

You noticed the wide screen TV and audio system across the room. “You know that fishes are highly sensitive to vibrations, right? You think your entertainment center gives them a headache?”

Bob looks at you with one raised eyebrow. “Come on, I deliberately put the TV and stereo across the room because I had learned my lesson. When I was younger, my bedroom was just half of this. I had to put my cassette player next to the aquarium. I wondered why my fishes never lasted more than a month. Then I noticed that every time I turned on the player the fishes darted around frantically. I did a little research and discovered that the vibrations of sound waves are four times ‘louder’ through water than through air. Therefore, loud sounds, tapping the aquarium walls and tank stands, and even slamming doors and windows can shock fishes out of their wits. I had been careful since then.”

“Speaking of shock,” you proceed, “fish don’t like sudden changes in anything. Has your water temperature been constant?”

Bob is eager to fill you in on how good a fishkeeper he has been. “I always check the water conditions. I check the temperature maybe three times a day. I know that fish are delicate creatures and maintaining an ideal environment is extremely important because unlike in the wild, the aquarium is a small, enclosed habitat that could easily go foul if unattended. I am not aware of any equipment malfunction or power failure that could’ve caused extreme conditions in the tank.”

“How about your feeding routine?”

“I was getting to that.” Bob continues. “Nutrition is very important to fish. Not just the right kind of food but also the proper manner of feeding. I give my Oscars a good variety of food, and in adequate amounts so they don’t become obese. I read the labels, too, to be sure I am providing them with all the necessary nutrients. I don’t want them suffering from some vitamin deficiency. And I never give too much too soon, especially if it’s a new type of food because they can get constipated that way. Constipation can kill, you know. But I’m sure that’s not what killed my Oscars.” Bob buries his face in his hands.

“Your water changes have been regular?” You explore another cause of stress.

“Yes,” Bob mumbles through his fingers. “Fifteen percent, every two weeks, conditioned water, like clockwork.”

Once again, you’re back to square one.

Lethal Weapon

You approach the coffee table and inspect the dead Oscars. You pick up a pen and flip one of them over.

Bob notices you and snaps, “Oh, no! You’re not thinking of doing an autopsy on my pets are you?”

You leave the Oscars and reassure Bob. “I may not have to.”

You rush back to the tank and trace the wiring of the lights, pumps, and heaters back to the wall socket. You notice that the socket doesn’t have a GFCI or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.

You unplug all the equipment and examine them one by one. Is any electrical part of the powerhead filter submerged in the water? Are the wires in the overhead reflector lamp properly insulated? They’re all clean.

You pull out the heater that’s camouflaged behind one of the rock formations, and… “Voila!

Here’s your culprit, Bob. Hairline cracks on your heater. Your fish were electrocuted.”

“How can that happen?” Bob looks over your shoulder, mystified.

“Your rock formation may have accidentally pressed on the heater and cracked the glass casing. The water seeped into the cracks and caused a short. Normally the short would trip a GFCI if you had one, but since you don’t have one, you may want to check your house wiring because it should’ve tripped your breaker fuse.

“The short in the heater caused an erratic current to run through the water. The Oscars were in close proximity to the heater when the current surged, and the electricity flowed through their bodies, killing them instantly. If you had been there and dipped your hand in the water, you would’ve been zapped as well.”

Bob falls back in the chair. “You mean because I didn’t have that grounding interrupter thing my fish and my own life were in danger all along?”

“Yep. Not just your Oscars but also you would’ve been toast. And it would’ve caused an electrical fire, too.”

“How did you figure it out?” Bob wanted to know what tipped you off.

“When strong electricity runs through the body of a fish, it snaps the fish’s vertebra causing instant death. When I flipped one of your Oscars, I noticed that it was limp, like it had a broken spine. That’s what led me to your wiring. Case closed.”

Bob thanks you for your help and condolences, and invites you to the funeral services at sunset. You put your arm around Bob’s shoulder and offer to help him check the house’s electrical wiring; that should be a lot simpler than solving the mystery of what causes healthy-looking fish to swim away to that great aquarium in the sky.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Top 20 Suspects in Mysterious Deaths:

1. Incompatibility - fish could harass each other to death
2. Lack of oxygen – asphyxiation is just one of its many complications
3. Overfeeding – leads to pollution, obesity, and other problems
4. Decaying food and debris – raises the level of toxic chemicals
5. Décor accidents – fish bruised, crushed, snagged, or punctured for art’s sake
6. Toxic or unsafe décor - unwashed, metallic, or contaminated
7. Medication – read the fine print for the side effects
8. Contamination – from sick fish, polluted water, infected tanks, or rotten food
9. Chlorine poisoning – attacks the gills, and gags the fish
10. Ammonia poisoning – like swimming in a pool of pee
11. Nitrite poisoning - breathing in an alien atmosphere
12. Copper poisoning - nobody survives a diet of metals
13. Toxic fumes – they dissolve in the water
14. Improper or inept handling – can injure externally and internally
15. Sudden changes – not for the faint of heart
16. Equipment failure – like pulling the plug on a life support system
17. Loud vibrations – killing softly with loud songs
18. Poor nutrition – a form of torture
19. Constipation – can distress a fish to death
20. Electric shock - just one zap and it’s all over

Sphere: Related Content

Technorati Tags: Aquarium Care, Cause Of Death, Coffee Table, Crime Scene Investigation, Dead Bob, Death Cases, Easy Bob, Fishes, Gallon Aquarium, Hole In The Head, Incompatibility, Lack Of Oxygen, Murder Weapon, Mysterious Death, Mysterious Deaths, Oscars, Oxygen Level, Paper Towel, Scene Of The Crime, Siamese Algae Eaters

Technorati Tags: Acceptable Limits, Aquarium Care, Aquarium Fish, Array, Blowing Bubbles, Carbon Dioxide, Cool Water, Fish, Fish Aquarium, Goldfish, Minerals, Organic Material, Oxygen, Oxygen Tank, Oxygen Water, Parameters, Presence, Silence, Surface Of The Water, Suspicion, Temperature Control, Uneaten Food, Warm Water, Water Changes, Water Fishes

by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

Prevention is always better than cure, so making sure that the aquarium environment is always ideal is your best preventive measure against illnesses. This means regular check-ups on the optimum efficiency of the equipment, constant monitoring of the integrity of the water condition and temperature, diligent precautions against introducing harmful elements into the environment, and most importantly, a close eye on the fishes themselves. Keeping informed on the latest innovations in water conditioning for fish health is also important; for example, beneficial bacteria found in products like EcoBio-Block could help prevent infections and disease.

However, sometimes, no matter how cautious or diligent you are at ensuring the health of your fishes, untoward circumstances bring about health problems that need serious attention. If only for this unpredictable occurrence of fish ailments, you should be ready with enough know-how on ways to address fish health problems.

Bacterial and Fungal Infections

The most common health problem among aquarium fish is infection from bacteria and fungus. The primary culprit is usually bad water quality. Pollution due to the rotting of uneaten food, irregular water changes, and poor tank maintenance contribute to the deterioration of the habitat — this makes the fishes weak and susceptible to infections.

Stress, from mishandling, introduction of aggressive or incompatible species, and habitat disturbances, also leave the fishes traumatized and susceptible to diseases. Malnutrition, or an inappropriate diet, aggravates the situation – anything considered malnourished is definitely taking a serious health risk.

Here are some examples of bacterial and fungal infections, and how to deal with them:

• Fin Rot – Fish with long, trailing fins are most susceptible to fin rot – a degeneration and inflammation of the fin rays and membranes. Aside from poor water quality and vitamin deficiency, fin rot is often the result of infections arising from damage brought about by mishandling, as well as fin-nipping attacks from tank mates. Infected fish should be removed and the affected areas treated with commercially available anti-bacterial fish medicine. Remedy water condition and compatibility problems, as well as diet deficiencies to prevent the spread of the ailment.

• Fungus – Aside from bacteria, fungus can attack the areas on the fish body that has suffered some extent of damage (such as wounds or holes left by parasites). Cotton-like fungal growth appears as patches that give the fish a dull, shabby appearance. To treat fungal infections, subject the tank to a fungicide remedy. Address other possible causes like poor water quality, parasites, and aggressive tank mates.
• Pop-Eye – One of the more serious bacterial infections is called pop-eye, marked by inflamed eyes protruding from the sockets. Looking very sickly, fish infected with pop-eye usually contract the ailment because of poor water quality, mishandling or distress from fighting with other fishes. Antibiotics may be effective but, if the infection has progressed to a form of tuberculosis, the afflicted fish may have to be removed and euthanized.

Parasites

On rare occasions, even the most cautious aquarist can unknowingly introduce parasites into a well-maintained tank. New fishes, live food, live plants, and some decorations are all potential carriers of aquatic parasites. Here are some of the parasites you should watch for:

• Fish Lice – Also known as Argulus, fish lice, looking like transparent flat disks, attach themselves to the skin and suck on the fish’s blood. The fish feels itchy and scratches itself on the substrate or on rocks and other hard décor.
• Anchor Worm – Lernaea, or anchor worms, are greenish-white threadlike organisms that attach themselves to the body of the fish. The skin becomes inflamed and the fish scratches the affected area on hard surfaces in the tank.
• Leeches – Worm-like leeches attach themselves to the host fish to feed on its blood. The fish feels the irritating suckers and tries to scratch them off on the substrate, rocks, or wood.

To treat parasite infestations, remove the afflicted fish from the tank, and with a pair of tweezers, pull the parasites off. Apply antiseptic to the wounds. Proprietary treatments against specific parasites are commercially available. You will have to treat the whole tank to prevent further proliferation of these harmful organisms.

Other Ailments

Aside from attacks by bacterial, fungus, and parasites, fish also suffer from other maladies, mostly related to intestinal or organ problems. For example:

• Dropsy – Characterized by a severely swollen or bloated abdomen and is believed to be caused primarily by poor water quality (high nitrate or sodium chloride levels) and malnutrition. Remedy, therefore, involves correcting the habitat conditions and the fish diet.
• Constipation – Sometimes the fish fails to digest food properly due to a poor diet and overfeeding. Constipated and bloated, the afflicted fish will not want to eat; hardly discharging feces, and feeling weak, it will often rest on the substrate. Experts suggest adding a teaspoon of Epsom salts to every 10 liters (2 gallons) of tank water, and then making sure that the fish is fed the right food in proper quantities.
• Swim Bladder Disease – Poor water quality, mishandling, and congenital disorder are the main causes of swim bladder disease. The afflicted fish has difficulty staying upright, oftentimes swimming upside down or sideways. Antibiotics and improvement of the water conditions can correct bacterial infection due to a poor habitat. Congenital disorders and permanent swim bladder damage, however, may be irreparable, therefore, euthanasia should be considered.

Sphere: Related Content

Technorati Tags: Aquarium Care, Aquarium Environment, Aquarium Fish, Bad Water, Beneficial Bacteria, Check Ups, Common Ailments, Fin Rays, Fin Rot, Fish Ailments, Fish Health Problems, Harmful Elements, Latest Innovations, Optimum Efficiency, Poor Tank, Poor Water Quality, Ruby Bayan, Tank Maintenance, Unpredictable Occurrence, Water Condition

by Ruby Bayan, OurSimpleJoys.com

Providing your fish with the right types of food at the right time is crucial. For your pet fish to flourish in their captive environment, they need to assimilate nutrients that are identical to those found in their natural habitat.

Fortunately, different types of fish food, packed with necessary minerals and nutrients, and prepared in various forms, are commercially available. With your knowledge of your specific fishes’ nutritional and feeding requirements, and the help of your nearest well-stocked pet food store, your fish communities can enjoy the diets essential to their health, appearance, and life span.

Feeding Principles

There are several basic principles you need to remember when feeding aquarium fish. By following the feeding tips related to these principles, you can rest assured that your fish community will remain in an equilibrium and in optimum health.

1. Each specie of fish has unique food and feeding requirements. Carnivores will need plenty of protein — from meat slivers or small fish. Herbivores will require adequate fiber — from plants and algae. Some species appreciate chasing live food like insects and worms.
   Tip: Research on the food requirements and feeding habits of each breed of fish you keep. Then inspect the different types of food commercially available. This will help you determine which types of food you need to stock up on.
2. Overfeeding can be hazardous to your fish community. Fish can only eat as much as their stomachs will allow. Typically, fishes are able to swallow their one-meal intake within three to five minutes from the time the food is introduced into the tank. After that, the leftovers will remain suspended in the water and start to decay, polluting the environment. Not even the most efficient filtration system can counteract a heavily contaminated setup.
   Tip: Feed the fish a little at a time, at regular intervals during the day, instead of dropping one “big meal” into the tank. To help minimize accidental pollution and maintain a clear and healthy environment for the fish, consider incorporating a water-conditioning product in your set-up like the EcoBio-Block.
3. Fish can also get obese — another consequence of overfeeding. Some breeds of fish (like cyclids and catfish) are prone to non-stop eating, giving way to obesity and poor health. Fish food that are too fatty (like Whiteworms) should be given sparingly.
   Tip: Be aware of this obesity phenomenon and feed only the quantity and quality of food that will ensure good health and nutrition.
4. Sometimes not all the fish are able to eat properly. In a community tank, fast swimmers and hyperactive fish will get to the food sooner than the rest. Juveniles will be more picky than adults. Nocturnals will only eat when it’s dark. Surface feeders will only eat food that are floating; bottom feeders will only eat food that have sunk. A new fish may be too shy to approach the food, and sick ones will simply ignore the feedings.
   Tip: Observe all the fish during feeding time. Ensure that all of them are able to eat properly and adequately.
5. Fish appreciate variety in their diets. Feeding your fish the same food for months at a time can lead to some form of malnutrition. In their native habitats, fish obtain a variety of foods, so this is what you should strive to simulate.
   Tip: Vary the types of food you give your fish community — through a mixture or alternation of prepared foods (dried and frozen), live foods, and greens, for a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, and minerals.
6. Live or fresh foods, though nutritious and preferred by most fishes can be risky. Worms, insect larvae, water fleas, and brine shrimp are just some of the live foods that most fish enjoy chasing and gobbling up. Unfortunately, introducing these tasty delights into your aquarium poses the risk of introducing disease-carrying bacteria or accompanying predators (leeches and diving beetles) as well.
   Tip: Always rinse live and fresh food under clean running water to remove dirt and dead ones. Culture your own batches, if possible, to avoid harvesting unwanted predators. And scoop out the uneaten ones after each meal because they will eventually die and pollute the water.

Nutritional Requirements

In order to understand what types of foods are essential for your fish, here’s a rundown of the different nutrients that are crucial for fish health and longevity:

1. Proteins – About 50 percent of the total calorie requirement of fish come from proteins. Amino acids, the building blocks of muscles, cells, and tissue are essential, especially for juvenile fish.
2. Carbohydrates – More required by freshwater fish than marine fish, carbohydrates are also necessary for energy and growth.
3. Fatty Acids – The major energy source for most fish, fats are stored in their tissues to provide stamina and serve as storage medium for fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K.
4. Minerals – Abundant sources of minerals exist for fishes in their natural habitat. In an aquarium, fishes will need prepared food fortified with minerals (like calcium for their bone formation).
5. Vitamins - The essential vitamins your fish need are: A (from greens and crustaceans), B-Complex (from greens, eggs, and yeast), C (from greens, algae, and fish eggs), D (from snails, shrimps, and earthworms), E (from algae, greens, and egg yolk), and K (from water fleas, greens, and liver).
6. Fiber - Also a necessary diet component for fish, fiber is abundant in vegetable matter.

Sphere: Related Content

Technorati Tags: Aquarium Care, Aquarium Fish, Captive Environment, Community Fish, Different Types Of Fish, Different Types Of Food, Feed The Fish, Filtration System, Fish Communities, Fish Community, Food And Feeding, Food Requirements, Life Span, Little At A Time, Necessary Minerals, Optimum Health, Pet Fish, Ruby Bayan, Small Fish, Types Of Fish, Types Of Food